Anderson Ranch, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park off-trail, river-bottom day-hike

Anderson Ranch meadow, from south upsteam end

Anderson Ranch meadow, from south upsteam end

Anderson Ranch is a large river-bottom, flood-plain meadow on the left bank of the Elwha River; it lies immediately upstream of Goblins Gate. More fully, or historically, it was the Billy Anderson Ranch, and that name will sometimes be seen. It is quite near the beginning of the main Elwha River Trail, but is on the opposite side of the river.

To get to the Ranch, start from the Whiskey Bend Trailhead, where the main Elwha trail starts and follow it up-river through the Humes Ranch area (a popular day-hiking complex). Use the steel suspension Long Ridge Trail Bridge that (dramatically) crosses the river to give access to Long Ridge Trail. Then hike cross-country back down the other side to the Ranch. Or, much more direct, if the water is unusually low (late summer, fall, maybe), robust types ford the river from the foot of Rica Canyon Trail. … cont’d >

Rica Canyon Trail, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park 1.5 mi to Elwha River's Goblins Gate

Rica Canyon Trail sign

Rica Canyon Trail sign

The Rica Canyon trail begins at the 3rd intersection up the main Elwha River Trail, about 1.1 miles out of the Whiskey Bend Trailhead. The first two junctions are both for a short side-loop trail called Elk Overlook, which is a nice viewpoint for Anderson Ranch, itself an off-trail day-hike. It’s easy to miss the Overlook return junction, heading up-trail, which makes a bit of a stealth reentry. The Rica spur-trail leads several hundred feet down-slope to the river at the downstream end of Geyser Valley (no geysers), where the Elwha makes a dramatic entry into Rica Canyon at a feature known as Goblins Gate, a narrow slot with vertical cliffs on both sides. This is where the river enters Rica Canyon. … cont’d >

Mount Fitzhenry, Olympic Nat’l Park Elwha River and northern Bailey Range, Olympic Mountains

Lake Mills and Mt. Fitzhenry

Lake Mills and Mt. Fitzhenry

Mount Fitzhenry (5,948′) is mostly noted & known (such as it is), as the modest but picturesque peak poised at the head of now-drained Lake Mills, on the Elwha River in the Olympic National Park.   The summit is about 6 miles away, by the crow; the base only half of that.  It is part of the watersheds of Cat Creek, Long Creek, Fairchild Creek and the Elwha.   There are no official trails for it. … cont’d >

Stephen Peak, Bailey Range, Olympic Nat’l Park Bailey Range, Olympic Mountains & Park

Stephen Peak from eastern Bailey Range

Stephen Peak from eastern Bailey Range

Stephen Peak is a substantial chunk of backcountry terrain in the Olympic Mountains of Olympic National Park, usually treated as an obstacle along the unofficial Bailey Range Traverse; something to get around and continue with a larger plan. It is prominent in the main cluster of mountains on display from the popular Hurricane Ridge Recreation Area.

Hoh River Beach, Ocean Strip, Olympic Nat’l Park the middle stretch of the Olympic Park ocean-strip

Hoh River mouth beach, south

Hoh River mouth beach, south

Hoh River beach is at the end of Oil City Road, down a short trail, and is the southern entrance to a section of undeveloped Olympic National Park coast strip stretching north to La Push], about 12 miles.  The small Hoh Tribe reservation occupies the far (south) side of the river mouth, with a few modest woodframe structures visible beach-side.  Most visitors here remain more or less close to the Hoh, and then exit here as well.  It’s a fine & easy day-hike, and an ideal overnighter too.

Hoh River mouth, headlands north

Hoh River mouth, headlands north

Not far up this coast to the north, the Hoh Head headland is impassable on the beach.  It is necessary to use a more or less short overland trail along the top of the bluffs.  Other headlands to have overland routes, usually only needed when the tide is high.  Getting up these bluffs can be a muddy scramble, but there are usually ropes and aids installed, so it isn’t too hard (or exposed).  The paths over the headlands themselves are then often messy and brushy, too … and difficult to keep well-maintained.  Because the right tides are needed, and the headland detours aren’t seen as an attraction, few people tackle them and most remain near the Hoh mouth, instead.

Hoh beach headland and slide

Hoh beach headland and slide

Of course, on the other hand … impenetrable temperate rain forest jungle, several times the down-wood and trash as the worst of the Amazon Basin;  ferocious underbrush from the ocean-bluff sun-opening; consumer-hiker antipathy … what’s not to like?  This ocean-strip was not preserved firstly for the tide-pools and wave-lapped sands, but for the obnoxiously rank habitat just inland from the beach-bluffs.  Few pay it close attention, except as an imposing obstacle, much less engage it.  Folks are here for the beach …

The terrain inland of the narrow Park-strip is all unpopulated commercial timberland without development, except for logging roads.  This section of the Strip is also backed by a rectangular block of State and corporate forest totally 50 to a 100 square miles.  A network of logical but easily bewildering roads covers all of it; the roads do not come quite “to” the Park boundary, instead the loggers drag logs from the boundary area, back to their roads.  Then the logged units regrow into baby, juvenile, adolescent and teenage jungle.  If there is anything worse better than the mature coastal jungle, it is this immature jungle.  Whoa.

Hoh River mouth from beach, at sunrise

Hoh River mouth from beach, at sunrise

Oil City, Hoh River, Olympic Nat’l Park is a rectilinear block of many dozens, perhaps 100s of platted small-lots, a mostly undeveloped inholding in the Park, situated on the upland just north of the Hoh mouth, and not far inland from the gentle (but jungle-carpeted) bluffs along this part of the beach.  These properties were sold off many years ago, and the Park did not acquire them when the Strip was taken over.  The owners are scattered across the nation, even the world.  They come and go on the real estate market.  Some with primitive cabins; an occasional Hippie-fantasy in the forest, but mostly just woods.

Stripped Peak, Olympic Peninsula outlying, isolated, small Olympic Mountain

Stripped Peak, northeast Olympic Peninsula

Stripped Peak, northeast Olympic Peninsula

Stripped Peak (1,166′) sits off by itself, 7-8 miles from the northern frontrange of the Olympic Mountains (4-5 miles from the Foothills), hard against the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 5-6 miles west of the mouth of the Elwha River.  It is mostly State DNR timberland, but has gradually taken on more of a recreational character & role.  A one-lane road leads off Freshwater Bay Road up the east side to public parking and a lookout.  At the eastern base is a boat launch and rocky beach.  At the opposite western foot is the county Salt Creek Campground, with a trail that climbs the northern water-face and returns in a loop.

Stripped Peak, southeast to Hurricane Ridge

Stripped Peak, southeast to Hurricane Ridge

Freshwater Bay Road, off US Highway 101, ends at a developed public boat launch.   At the launch entry a side road leads past some nearby rural residences, then up the east side of the hill through commercial forest.   Near the top is a parking area and trailhead, looking out over the north slope, Strait of Juan de Fuca, and southern Vancouver Island.  The ‘top’ is roughly flattened, and includes an area perhaps a mile long and half that wide.   Unmaintained and outright overgrown roads & grades lead off the main road, and the trail-route uses parts of the roads.

Stripped Peak, Baldy Ridge and foothills

Stripped Peak, Baldy Ridge and foothills

There are several ‘peaks’ across the broad top, one of which is the highest and hosts a small fenced ‘antenna farm’.  This height sits toward the south (opposite the water), and has the best views of the Olympic Mountains, and the lowlands in between.  It has a rough road leading up, but it’s gated part way.  A couple tenths mile walk reaches the top, and a grade then  continues past the antennas and gradually down a little, onto the upper south slope.  Stripped Peak is old mainly-nodule agate-hunting grounds, and parts of the south side have been productive.  White and gray slab or seam chert, too.

Stripped Peak, southwest Boundary Creek area

Stripped Peak, southwest Boundary Creek area

The trail begins from the east side of Salt Creek Campground, near the entrance gate, and heads for the northern face, along the Strait.  Not too far up, a good side-path leads back down the elevation-gain, to a tiny waterfront cove with a little gravel beach, massive cliffs on either side.   The trail is mild, finding routes between outcrops and cliffs, and ends up at the parking lot and overlook that the road leads to, from the other side of the hill.  The driveable road soon ends, and hikers follow it to an outright abandoned grade that leads back down the west side, coming out at the campground gate, just yards from the trailhead.

Stripped Peak, north Vancouver Island

Stripped Peak, north Vancouver Island

The parking lot, which sits along the upper of the multiple basalt cliffs that make the Peak appear Stripped, offers what is likely the best vantage of Canada’s southern Vancouver Island to be had, from the north Olympic Peninsula.  The distance of 25 miles or so is a little long, but with an exceptionally clear day and a meaningful lense – with the 1,000′ lift – unusual & worthwhile shots are possible.   The capital of British Columbia, Victoria BC, is a little further off to the right, quartering to the NE, and beyond it on almost the same bearing (at roughly twice the distance), lies the western Canadian metropolis of Vancouver BC.  Neither of those are favorable views from Stripped Peak, especially not Vancouver; both are better possibilities from Blue Mountain, further east and in line with Victoria, but also about another 10-12 miles south.  Blue Mtn, however, is 6,007′, and primitive Blue Mountain goes nearly to the top (in summer).

Aurora Creek Trail, Lake Crescent, Olympic Nat’l Park fast route to the top of Aurora Ridge

Aurora Creek Trail, lower with understory

Aurora Creek Trail, lower with understory

Aurora Creek Trail starts on the bank across from its small paved pullout Aurora Ridge Trailhead, beside US Highway 101 on Lake Crescent in Olympic National Park, and goes straight up the forested side of Aurora Ridge from which the highway is literally carved, up about 3,600′ in 3.4 miles.  A very reasonable trail at all times, it tends to its main purpose of gaining altitude in a business-like manner.  It is lightly used and not always maintained, but being under heavy canopy lower-down, and later on rocky footings further-up, the path itself does not deteriorate. … cont’d >