Olympic National Park, NW USA

Olympic National Park is mainly the inner Olympic Mountains of the Olympic Peninsula, a far northwest promontory of Washington State, at the far northwest corner of the United States.   The old-fashioned US Highway 101 enters the Peninsula at its base, and circumnavigates the Park, mostly staying outside it.  ‘The Loop’ is a big part of the popularity of Olympic, and a big defining element of its character and the Peninsula that hosts it.  Although it can be driven in one long day,  the Loop-tour around the Peninsula is a quick weekend-sized outing.  … cont’d >

Olympic Mountains, NW USA an outlying buckle in the subduction zone

Pacific Nortwest from space

Olympic Mountains & Pacific Nortwest

Olympic Mountains is a small (50-75 mi), cleanly-defined, roughly circular and radial, even slightly spiraled local range (barely) on the far northwest coast of the USA.   It dominates the interior of Olympic Peninsula.  The Olympics are noted for their high degree of ruggedness, and for their high visibility from nearby urban and conurbated populations.  Many Seattlites take the Olympics as their private yard-art, and as provocation & personal challenge to get off the sidewalk and engage with Nature.  … cont’d >

Logging road access to Olympic Wilderness Coast

The Olympic National Park has strips of land along the Pacific coast, separate from the main body of the Park. These coast-strips are quite narrow, mostly just a mile or few wide. But we don’t notice that they’re skinny, since we’re on routes that hug the beaches.

There are only a small number of official, developed locations at which to access this Wilderness Coast. And there are long, isolated runs of coastline, between these few points.

But if you were to claw through the brush away from the water – at virtually any point along the coast – before traveling very far you would find yourself in … logging-country. Timberland. Inland from the Park coast-strips are relatively vast commercial forests. With logging roads, everywhere.

Locals have long gotten to specific wilderness sites on the ocean, by driving out along certain logging roads to parking-spots from which they can follow an informal route or path through the Park-strip, down to the beach. (Some of these routes & sites, will actually predate the Park.) Instead of having to walk all day along the beaches, they drive in on the logging roads and then walk half an hour through the brush – to get to the same place.

Walking through this brush is – cough – easier said than done … if you don’t have a trail. In the absence of an existing path, foreknowledge of the route, and real experience in these coastal jungles, that naive mile through the brush might as well be 100. Fighting just a short ways through this undergrowth & windfall & swamp, can make walking a darn long ways up the beach seem like a strikingly good choice.

The very popular Park trails out to the beach & back on the Ozette Loop include many stretches of picturesque Board Walk, to cope with the muck & swamp. Imagine having to travel parallel to these elevated wooden (plastic) foot-roads.

Still, the fact remains that logging roads cover all the inland forest resource. Generally, no part of the timberland is as much as half a mile from the closest road. Such a road system does get to be quite the maze … but it is a logical & efficient maze. You need the road maps; the roads are all numbered, on the map, but roadside signage is often sparse or absent … so you need a GPS too. Or very good maze-skills. Different government agencies & corporations own different parts of the forest … but nowadays every county has a good online mapserver.

Truthfully, finding a shortcut to a spot on the Park beach to have a picnic or an evening party is pretty far down the list of good reasons to undertake learning the logging roads and how to access the inland side of these coastal Park strips. The narrow band of mostly or near-virgin & oldgrowth forest-habit just inland of the beach is the best goal of this kind of project. Learning the commercial forests will be value #2, but it may gradually mount a credible challenge to #1.

It is much easier to make a modest penetration of these primal Park forsts … and retrace your steps (or use the GPS), than to follow all the way through with completely descending through the fierce thickets that blanket the final slopes down to the shoreline.

And too, plenty of this coastline is bounded by outright sheer cliffs.

Forest agencies & companies commonly offer permits – and privileges – to users such as hunters, fishers, firewood cutters, those seeking to gather forest-byproducts (mushrooms, ferns, et), or simply interested members of the public. By working with these systems, one can learn & stay informed about times & patterns of logging road access.

Elwha River Road – not to the Elwha always broken; can't fix

The Olympic Hot Springs Road is sometimes seen referred to as the Elwha River Road. Locals are not affected … even though they also practice & perpetuate the ambiguous usage.

The road that visitors to the Olympic National Park and the facilities & recreation along the Elwha River will be looking for is the Olympic Hot Springs Road.  Not the Elwha River Road.

There are roads outside the Park, near and around the lower, downstream reaches of the river, one or more of which at various time have been called Elwha River Road … but the one going into the Park has been the Olympic Hot Springs Road, since early in the 20th C.

Verily, there is also the Olympic Hot Springs Abandoned Trail, which the road superceded with the same destination, and inherited the name.

Stripped Peak, Olympic Peninsula outlying, isolated, small Olympic Mountain

Stripped Peak, northeast Olympic Peninsula

Stripped Peak, northeast Olympic Peninsula

Stripped Peak (1,166′) sits off by itself, 7-8 miles from the northern frontrange of the Olympic Mountains (4-5 miles from the Foothills), hard against the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 5-6 miles west of the mouth of the Elwha River.  It is mostly State DNR timberland, but has gradually taken on more of a recreational character & role.  A one-lane road leads off Freshwater Bay Road up the east side to public parking and a lookout.  At the eastern base is a boat launch and rocky beach.  At the opposite western foot is the county Salt Creek Campground, with a trail that climbs the northern water-face and returns in a loop.

Stripped Peak, southeast to Hurricane Ridge

Stripped Peak, southeast to Hurricane Ridge

Freshwater Bay Road, off US Highway 101, ends at a developed public boat launch.   At the launch entry a side road leads past some nearby rural residences, then up the east side of the hill through commercial forest.   Near the top is a parking area and trailhead, looking out over the north slope, Strait of Juan de Fuca, and southern Vancouver Island.  The ‘top’ is roughly flattened, and includes an area perhaps a mile long and half that wide.   Unmaintained and outright overgrown roads & grades lead off the main road, and the trail-route uses parts of the roads.

Stripped Peak, Baldy Ridge and foothills

Stripped Peak, Baldy Ridge and foothills

There are several ‘peaks’ across the broad top, one of which is the highest and hosts a small fenced ‘antenna farm’.  This height sits toward the south (opposite the water), and has the best views of the Olympic Mountains, and the lowlands in between.  It has a rough road leading up, but it’s gated part way.  A couple tenths mile walk reaches the top, and a grade then  continues past the antennas and gradually down a little, onto the upper south slope.  Stripped Peak is old mainly-nodule agate-hunting grounds, and parts of the south side have been productive.  White and gray slab or seam chert, too.

Stripped Peak, southwest Boundary Creek area

Stripped Peak, southwest Boundary Creek area

The trail begins from the east side of Salt Creek Campground, near the entrance gate, and heads for the northern face, along the Strait.  Not too far up, a good side-path leads back down the elevation-gain, to a tiny waterfront cove with a little gravel beach, massive cliffs on either side.   The trail is mild, finding routes between outcrops and cliffs, and ends up at the parking lot and overlook that the road leads to, from the other side of the hill.  The driveable road soon ends, and hikers follow it to an outright abandoned grade that leads back down the west side, coming out at the campground gate, just yards from the trailhead.

Stripped Peak, north Vancouver Island

Stripped Peak, north Vancouver Island

The parking lot, which sits along the upper of the multiple basalt cliffs that make the Peak appear Stripped, offers what is likely the best vantage of Canada’s southern Vancouver Island to be had, from the north Olympic Peninsula.  The distance of 25 miles or so is a little long, but with an exceptionally clear day and a meaningful lense – with the 1,000′ lift – unusual & worthwhile shots are possible.   The capital of British Columbia, Victoria BC, is a little further off to the right, quartering to the NE, and beyond it on almost the same bearing (at roughly twice the distance), lies the western Canadian metropolis of Vancouver BC.  Neither of those are favorable views from Stripped Peak, especially not Vancouver; both are better possibilities from Blue Mountain, further east and in line with Victoria, but also about another 10-12 miles south.  Blue Mtn, however, is 6,007′, and primitive Blue Mountain goes nearly to the top (in summer).