Cox Valley Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park

Cox Valley Trail [ref]For search-purposes: Park, WIC Wilderness Information Center literature may use the term “Cox Valley Primitive Trail”.[/ref] is a short (1.8 mi), deadend path set in the subalpine high-country of north-central Olympic National Park. It is road-accessible, in summer.

The Cox Valley Trailhead is a small, undeveloped pullout located about 0.6 miles down the rudimentary Obstruction Point Road, which begins near the north end of the Hurricane Ridge Recreation Area parking lot. This pullout is on a mild, comfortable stretch along this sometimes hair-raising old mountain road. An enjoyable place to stop, in its own right. Other informal & undesignated pullouts are common along the narrow road. A small sign identifies the trailhead.

Many are aware of this trail, because they see the sign as they motor slowly past it on their way to popular Obstruction Point, but relatively few hike it.

Although an enjoyable walk, first down a steep slope through a closed stand of small subalpine timber, then through small, valley-bottom meadows, the Cox Valley venue lacks marquee features to draw the attention of the casual recreationist, or to tempt the robust mountaineering-type. Still, it does have its claim-to-fame & sources of interest. [ref]Though at high enough elevation to be natural meadow, these are surrounded by healthy forest and have excellent soil: it should be borne in mind that they could be Native Prairie sites … and indeed, early homesteaders did go directly to these nice openings in the woods.[/ref]

Cox Valley was the site of a homestead, in the early years of the 20th C., before roads or even a modern trail-system in the Olympic Mountains. This valley is the headwaters of Morse Creek, which occupies an impressive canyon on the north periphery of the Olympic: today, Hurricane Ridge Road ascends along the left canyon-wall. Though not intrusive, the main road can be seen from the valley below.

The homesteaders built a trail up the creek, the mostly long-gone Morse Creek Abandoned Trail, and our Cox Valley Trail is the far upper-end fragment of it. If one continues on down, past the meadows in the valley and into the forest beyond, parts of the old trail can be found where it is protected under the trees. The first fragments of trail-tread are wide & well-engineered: this is almost certainly not the original tread, and these good-quality artifacts soon themselves come to an end.

The original Morse Creek Trail would not have received much excavation & engineering, and being lightly-made, most of it reverted & disappeared. Over the decades & generations, though, individuals & institutions have kept track of where it once lay … of the pieces & fragments that can still be discerned, which connect-the-dots fashion show where it once was … and where it could be once again, if it were so decided.

It appears that at some point in relatively modern times, a project was indeed begun, to rebuild & upgrade the old Morse Creek Trail, (or to completely replace it on a better route) but that this was discontinued while still at an early stage. The easily-found & followed stretch of wide, nicely-cut trail-base now abandoned in the forest below the meadows could have been constructed in a span of a few days, by a modest crew. They no more than barely got going, and then they stopped.

A very similar piece of needle-carpeted, well-made but short, abandoned trail can be found further down the Morse Creek Canyon. On Hurricane Ridge Road, at the Lookout Rock Viewpoint, stepping into the trees past the parking reveals the identical kind of trail-artifact. Lookout Rock is on the main ridge-crest, which forms a good natural route down into Morse Creek Canyon.

Down the ridge-line a ways from Lookout Rock there is a natural juncture at which a trail can branch; one going upstream into the Canyon, and other down-country toward the deadend trails near the Heart O’ the Hills Entrance … which itself is a fragment of the former trail system which the Cox Valley homesteaders would have used.

If the abandoned Lookout Rock trail was part of the same project as the Cox Valley work (and perhaps another piece at Heart O’ the Hills?), then that would tell us that the project took place after the modern Hurricane Ridge Road was built. These two pieces of short trail-construction do indeed look very much the same.

In winter, Obstruction Point Road is not plowed, and closes for the season. However, both informal and organized cross-country ski and snow-shoe activities are known to use the closed road as a nice subalpine winter travel route. The snow-paths they develop may give ready access to the trailhead … although the trailhead sign will be deeply buried, and Cox Valley Trail will be under yards of snow.

** Though at high enough elevation to be natural meadow, these are surrounded by healthy forest and have excellent soil: it should be borne in mind that they could be Native Prairie sites … and indeed, early homesteaders went straight for these nice openings in the woods.

Convulsion Canyon, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park dramatic scene & events on the Elwha River

Convulsion Canyon, Elwha River

Convulsion Canyon, Elwha River

Convulsion Canyon is now an informal or ‘cultural’ name for a notable stretch or spot along the Elwha River, in the Olympic National Park.  It is immediately upstream of the popular Geyser Valley and Humes Ranch day-use areas, and is the bottom end of the Elwha’s Grand Canyon. The steel suspension cable Long Ridge Trail Bridge is strung between the cliffs at this spot, allowing the hiker to look upstream into the gorge, and downstream into the broad Valley, from perhaps 50 feet above the river. People refer to this site as Convulsion Canyon, although it appears to officially be ‘just’ the bottom end of Grand Canyon. … cont’d >

Rica Canyon, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park the Elwha River between Hurricane Hill and Mt Fitzhenry

Rica Canyon topo quad crop, ca 1950

Rica Canyon topo quad crop, ca 1950

Rica Canyon is cut by the Elwha River through an elevated bedrock formation between the southwest base of Hurricane Hill on the river’s right bank, and east flank of Mount Fitzhenry on the left bank.  It is incised mainly through sandstone and shale.  It is crowded hard up against the steep convex base of Hurricane (which can be examined at Elk Overlook), and set away from Fitzhenry where its mild concave skirt meets its neighbor.  The raw, vertical portions of the canyon walls are 100 to 200 feet high, with very steep approaches extending up to several hundred feet highter (especially on the Hurricane side). … cont’d >

Lake Mills, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park the upper former Elwha River reservoir

Lake Mills from east dam abutment

Lake Mills from east dam abutment

Lake Mills was a more popular and better recreational venue than the more readily-accessible lower reservoir on the Elwha River (Lake Aldwell), even though it was farther & slower to get to.   And Mills had more regulations and restrictions, because it was within Olympic National Park, while the lower lake & dam were entirely outside the Park, and in legal multi-use (mostly State timber) lands.   The settings of both are pretty & evocative (then, as now, with the lakes & dams gone); the abrupt plunging-hillside forested ‘shores’ (rather ‘harsh’; no beaches, only occasional small pull-outs) were comparable in both cases. … cont’d >

Long Ridge Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park best view in interior Olympic National Park

Long Ridge Trail takes about 14 miles to ascend Dodger Point, from the Whiskey Bend Trailhead. Dodger hosted the old Forest Service fire lookout, before this country was Olympic National Park. Virtually the entirety of the interior Elwha River valley is in view; along with eastern and southern peaks of the Olympic Mountains, and much of the Bailey Range to the west. Unlike most trails in the Olympics, Long Ridge was purpose-built to commercial & professional pack-horse specifications, which means the grade is steady, even and smooth.    With less than 500 feet elevation per mile, this trail is especial fast, coming back downhill. … cont’d >

Upper Lake Mills Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park to the base of Rica Canyon

Upper Lake Mills Trail, timbered slope

Upper Lake Mills Trail, timbered slope

Upper Lake Mills Trail leads 0.4 mile from the small roadside Upper Lake Mills Trailhead to the banks of the Elwha River, in the Olympic National Park.  The locale at the river coincides with the exit and termination of Rica Canyon, which forms an impassable barrier to travel.  It looks like it could be a surviving, partially unmodified fragment of an ancient mountain trail network used by the Tribes, in the Olympic Mountains that became Olympic National Park.   The trailhead is a pullout on the Whiskey Bend Road, only a short walk (1/5 mi?) down from the much larger Whiskey Bend Trailhead (which could be used as a backup), where the road dead-ends today. … cont’d >

Elwha River Trail, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park thoroughfare of north-central Olympics

Elwha River Trail is the northern half of the main north-south thoroughfare down the middle of the Olympic National Park.  It’s 27.7 miles long, begining at the Whiskey Bend Trailhead and ending at the junction with the North Fork Quinault River Trail. With the southern North Fork trail, the Elwha forms the main north-south through-route in the Park

Sites along the Elwha include Camp Lillian at 4.6 miles; Mary’s Falls Camp 8.8; Camp Baltimore 9.0; Canyon Camp 10.4; Elkhorn Camp 11.5; Remman Cabin 12.5.  Tipperary, Chateau, Hayes River, Wilder, Chicago and Happy Hollow.

This trail makes interior through-connections via Hayes River Trail at 17 miles, and more commonly via Low Divide about 26 miles up.

… cont’d >

Whiskey Bend Trailhead, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park the Elwha River Trail entry

Elwha River Trail, Whiskey Bend Trailhead

Elwha River Trail, Whiskey Bend Trailhead

Whiskey Bend Trailhead is an important starting point for both deep backcountry access into the Olympic National Park, and for the very popular Humes Ranch and Geyser Valley day-hiking and family-camping area, both via the Elwha River Trail. It is also the start of a 7.9 mile peripheral through-hike on Wolf Creek Trail, to the Wolf Creek Trailhead, at the Hurricane Hill Picnic Area. This trailhead does require a 4.5 mile drive up the primitive Whiskey Bend Road, which is very marginal (generally not suitable) for trailers and RVs, and will be a bit of an adventure in itself, for plenty of drivers. Just the drive up the road to the trailhead qualifies as an outing, even an event, just to go up, get out for a few minutes, and come back down. … cont’d >

Geyser Valley, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park day-hiking the Elwha River wilds

Geyser Valley from Long Ridge Trail

Geyser Valley from Long Ridge Trail

Geyser Valley along with Humes Ranch, its best-known locale, form an area at the beginning of the Elwha River Trail that is popular for day-hiking and easy, laid-back weekend camp-outs. Most people who come here just call the whole area Humes Ranch. It’s a real valley, which much of the Elwha River ‘valley’ is decidely not. There was once a complex of homesteads here with small fields, orchards, barns, and at least one rustic lodge. Only a couple cabins remains standing, but the landscape is as inviting as ever. … cont’d >

Humes Ranch, Elwha River, Olympic Nat’l Park old homestead on the Elwha River

Humes Ranch is an old mountain homestead along the Elwha River Trail in the Olympic National Park.   Many refer to the general Geyser Valley environs and cultural-features complex, as ‘Humes Ranch’, although it’s only one part of it.  The homestead dates to around 1900; the Olympic Mountains had first been entered & traversed by Westerners, less than a decade earlier (by the Press Expedition 1889-90).   ‘Going to Humes Ranch’  is a popular day-hiking, photo-outing and minimal-backpacking camp-out for locals and knowledgable travelers alike.   The area begins only one mile from the Whiskey Bend Trailhead, and the main trail leaves the venue behind within about 3 miles. … cont’d >